KARRIMOR - ELITE TEAM

James McHaffie



James is one of Britain’s most accomplished all-round rock climbers. The diversity of his achievements is as impressive as their sheer difficulty, with sport redpoints up to F8c, onsights up to F8a, and a portfolio of trad onsights. James has onsighted over thirty E7’s (5.12 R / X’s) – possibly the highest number of onsights at that standard achieved by any climber in the world. James also performs at an exceptional level in sport climbing. He recently made two major redpoints in Madagascar’s Tsaranoro Massif on the big-wall project known as Tough Enough? on the West Face of Karimbony. Both of these pitches are desperate slab climbs of F8b+ and F8c respectively, and among the hardest climbs of their style in the world. Together with the impressive array of the UK’s hardest traditional routes that James has climbed onsight, the down-to-earth, no-nonsense approach that he naturally applies to his climbing is a great inspiration to those who climb with him.
James McHaffie
 		James working an 8b+ project in Madagscar
James has this to say about his passion for the sport:
“I started climbing around 1995 in the Lake District, where I grew up. I started out by climbing as many classic routes (and some not so classic ones!) as possible, before moving to North Wales five years ago to do more of the same. The majority of my climbing used to be soloing, but I’ve cut down on this in recent years. I’ve done the majority of routes between E5 and E7 in the Lakes and North Wales, so will be doing a lot of trips to Scotland in the near future. Great lines with high-quality, committing climbing are what I enjoy most, with Conan the Librarian at Gogarth on Anglesey still probably my favourite climb anywhere.

My aspirations for the near future are to try to ground up The Quarryman (an E8 on Dinorwig slate in North Wales) in a day, and possibly try to climb the old slate project known as Meltdown - that would possibly be the hardest route of its style in the world once free climbed. I finished an Environmental Science degree two years ago and have worked as an MIA climbing instructor at the Plas Y Brenin outdoor centre since then. Over the past ten years, I have done a great deal of private guiding and climbing coaching in the UK. I’d like to develop that aspect of my work further over the coming years.”


Climbing Highlights – UK

  • Conan the Librarian (E7 6b, 6b) Wen Zawn, Gogarth, Wales is probably my favourite route anywhere. I onsighted it when I first climbed it, and have done it three times now. It was brilliant every time – the essence of British adventure climbing!

    I'm not one for remembering 'highlights' as such, but rather good runs of great climbing. In 1998 I had a fantastic week in the ‘Lakes doing lots of the classics between E3 and E5. On the last day, we climbed on Dove Crag and I did Fear and Fascination (E5) and Fast & Furious (E5). In 1999 I had a similar run in Wales doing routes like Central Sadness (E5), Sexual Salami (E5), The Cad (E6) and ending the week on Lord of the Flies (E6). That’s what drives me as a climber, being on good form and making the most of it by climbing lots of great routes rather than just one hard project. Seriously though, the main highlights have been the number of funny people and good friends I've met through climbing.

    Climbing Highlights – Overseas

  • Always the Sun (7c+, 350 metres), Andringitra National Park, Madagascar. Onsight flash ascent in a day
  • Tough Enough? pitch 9 (8c) Andringitra National Park, Madagascar (2nd redpoint after 1 hour’s practice on a gri-gri)
  • Yosemite Valley – lots of free soloing, including an onsight solo of the East Buttress of El Capitan (5.10)

    Future Projects and Ambitions
    My future aspirations are simply to do more of the same. I'd certainly like to climb in the Alps and Scotland a great deal more. Other areas of the world inspire me too, the list is endless once you start thinking about it!



    • James climbing on home ground at Gogarth



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